Friday night in Rio, at Copacabana

A line to say I'm warming to the Copacabana Beach. We went the opposite way tonight and the section we walked had a very different feel to it. It was much better, less smelly, less messy and a much better vibe.

There are round kiosks all along the beach at intervals selling drinks, snacks and sandwiches. Literally on the beach which is floodlit all night so you can see the sands and the waves crashing while you sit and listen to live music along the beach. People are singing and dancing as you go, different musicians at every kiosk.

All good fun, our last night tonight and we 6; us, Shaun, Di, Elaine & Craig went out to dinner and it was a good meal, once we'd got past the language difficulties. I've surpassed my wildest expectations tonight ordering in Spanish with an accompaniment of Obrigado as and when necessary!!!

Sat here now pre booking or seats for the flight, so things coming to an end. Not yet though, as a full day planned for tomorrow.   Night All xxx

A day in Rio De Janeiro

It was a lovely sunny morning. The weather has been really kind to us. So we set off this morning to take the train up the mountain.  It's a small narrow gauge affair that was built in the 1880's and is still going strong. A ride to arrive at the feet of Christ the Redeemer. Now I am in awe. This is a very different perspective to the one you have looking up from afar.

Having taken the train to the feet of the Christ. The intimacy of such closeness and how you see the world below and around you I have changed my opinion.

There's a very profound message in there for discussion another day I'm just thinking, suffice to say it's all about closeness. What you experience close up and from a distance.

The beaches, the bays, the islands off shore, the harbour, lagoon, race course, the mountains around, the jungle, the tower blocks and the favellas all come together under the sun to create a thing of beauty.

The people are happy and cheery too. Always willing to give a smile and very grateful to be thanked with Obrigado as opposed to Gracias. 

So we looked down from every side and angle it seemed then took the train down. It's quite steep I found myself sliding off the seat on the way down. Just for the record as you're looking at the train and looking up the mountain the right hand side of the train affords the better views.

So then it was a trip across the city to the cable car, 2 stops with a lunch break at the first stop found us at the top of another show stopping mountain top 360 degree view. It is a beautiful city.

Then we drove back to the Hotel. Not the best we've experienced but I must say the view from the 30th floor rooftop bar up and down the length of Copacabana Beach does take a bit of beating.

So I'm writing this on our last evening in South America, it's been an extraordinary holiday, it is one of those once in a life time holidays. I doubt we would come this way again. But, for now we're still here so it's a case of getting up and out to see what's what in the bustle and madness below.

I'm lying in an oasis of calm in a room on the 11th floor the door onto the balcony open with the madness below, never silent, making its presence felt.

Out for our last evening all together now, see you all soon, I'm looking forward to that xxx

Rio De Janeiro

So here we are, Rio, the final stop before flying home. So what happened when we got here?

After all the usual faffing about checking in we got to our room, dumped the cases and went to the beach! The beach as far as I can see is its best asset. Early days yet I know. There may be more jewels to find!!! Though, even my first glance of Christ the Redeemer atop a hill over looking the city was a bit of a let down. It was rather understated in comparison to the perception you have looking at photos. I suppose you'd put that down to the trickery of the camera.

Then I had a paddle, it's got to be done, lovely golden sand. It's a lovely sandy beach as they go.

So then we walked and found somewhere to eat. It's a bit of a lottery, you'll know, but the fish goujons were ok. We ended up with another fish dish as well, with a florid green rice and potatoes of which we ate the fish and the whole lot cost us £15 so that wasn't so bad.

So we had a wander around, hanging on to handbags. I'd left my cross and chain in the safe,  even the tour guide said take it off as it will get snatched. Gangs of kids on motorbikes apparently.  Not wanting to loose my cross and get potentially lynched in the process it stayed in the room.

We're staying in the rich side of Rio, apparently there's a rich half and poor half. All I can say is if this is the rich half God help those people living in the poor half. It's busy, smelly, tired and noisy. (I'll talk about this some more, and I hope that last point doesn't sound too much like I shouldn't have said it).

Janet Lesley will love me forever when I say I think (know not think) I prefer Tenby. What an indictment but there it is, I'm glad I'm not staying here any longer than 2 nights.

The jewel of the tour in terms of a city has undoubtedly been Buonos Aires. As for the rest I would have no desire to go back to any of them.

After our meal we found the supermarket, bought some water got back to the Hotel where Shaun departed and we three Pips, myself and Di went up toothed 30th floor roof top bar for a drink. The views are fantastic if a little unnerving, being up there with nothing more than a piece of glass between you and the ground so far below.

I thought I'd try a Mojito as I'd been fancying one for days and wasn't feeling up to it. Anyhow, I sent it back as I couldn't taste much alcohol of any description!!!!  Pips reckons its because of the quadruples she pours, anyhow back it came and I can't say it was much different.

But, we had a good chat and a laugh and decided that we'd reserve total judgement on the whole of the city till tomorrow. It's just 10.30pm. I'm writing this in bed, but it's thronging out there. I don't think that this place ever sleeps but we have an early start in the morning and I'm dropping off.

Good Night All

Iguazu Falls, Brazil to Rio De Janeiro

So, after a leisurely morning, breakfast, monkey antics and the coach to the airport here we are waiting for the flight.

I've just spent a lovely half hour looking at the precious stones and jewellery here at the airport. Tax free so just a snip wouldn't you say.

A necklace caught my eye, it was lovely.
Made of cognac diamonds and a bi colour gold it was very glamorous,  beautiful. I've never really paid too much attention to jewellery such as these but you could certainly develop a taste. Ana, the very accommodating young assistant let me wear it. All in the cause of getting me to succumb of course. It would have been bread and dripping for evermore and no treats for anyone!!! She even let me take a photograph,  that was nice of her.

So here we are, just about to get on our last but one flight. It's turned into something like hopping off and on a bus, catching a flight this holiday. The passport has been well and truly stamped.

Iguazu Falls

What a place!!!

It took a days travel, up early yesterday for a 90 minute flight to Iguazu which is now more than a strip cleared in the jungle and a red brick building to accommodate the usual airport paraphernalia in a basic way. Still it did the job,  first we crossed the border into Brazil then got to walk to the falls. It's impressive from a distance but when you get close its just amazing. You get soaked from the spray created by the fall and the noise and the beauty of it all. It's just glorious. You can go up in a helicopter and go in a boat. The boat I anticipate would be better than the helicopter as it takes you in behind the waterfall. You get to appreciate it close up.

There's a walkway they allows you to see the falls in all its glory and eventually allows you to walk out over the falls.  Being so close to that power, wow. It's beyond words really.

So we're in this hotel in the middle of the.jungle, nothing else is around. This is a feat in its own right managing to build and to keep this running. It's so isolated.

I'm sat in the shade writing this, it must be 30 degrees.  Most of the group were off walking first thing. Others went a bit later and here we are taking it quietly.

It's a case of recuperating, we've both been struck by what's been described as Montezuma's revenge. So I don't really fancy walking in this heat.

So the place is magical,  we'll go for a walk later. But for now, I'll sit and enjoy the view, the birds and the butterflies. They are both very exotic looking. Especially the butterflies and there seems to be dozens of them.

It's 6.30pm now, enjoying the cool of the day. Sat out with a drink (water) and Pips has got a beer. This cheeky monkey has just jumped on the table,  pinched a bit of xjeese that was left in the bowl and scooted off. As I said to Pips we ought to be grateful he didn't pinch the binocular case. I was off with those searching.out toucans. They are fantastic birds not least that they can fly. They've given us a show tonight, very impressive.

We've walked and walked today the falls are fantastic, and the walk ways allow you to get so close. It's quire discerning as you are so close to those big drops with millions of gallons.of water thundering over.

So we got to Colonia

After the business of the city this place is a welcome relief. The old city, I use the word loosely is situated on a peninsula.  You can see the usefulness of it as a vantage point.

This place has been fought over for centuries,  first the Portuguese then the spaniads, the British had a part to play as occupiers too.

Today, it's a relative oasis of calm 'we have no poor people' says the guide. I'm not sure about that, but what they have got is a quiet, gentle old city with a white sand beach that stretches for miles and the coast road is studded with Argentinian holiday homes. People from the states too have liked it's charm, as well as Europe, all building holiday homes. All very tastefully done too,  neat with gardens of indigenous flowers. Makes a change from the mess of Lima and La Paz.

There's a bit of an old world charm about the place. Lots of birds flying about including these green parakeets that make one hell of a racket squabbling about this and the other. I would cheerfully shoot them the noise they make. Perhaps it's not so quiet!!!!

It's a lazy place, long leisurely lunches, in the sun. We've been lucky with the weather again. Not so lucky from a gut point of view. I'm not sure if it's a case of my gut protesting because of all its had to deal with or  I have picked something up. Symptoms would suggest the latter, I'll leave it at that.

So, we've walked, and sat and fell asleep on a park bench,  at least I did. One hot chocolate and some water later and we're waiting to be picked up. Can't come too soon to be honest!!!

On the bright side, if I was in the business of ticking countries off a list, there's one more ticked off.

Up early against tomorrow to fly to the falls. Two days of relative peace then it's the bright lights of Rio, then the not so bright lights of Radyr!!!

Colonia Uruguay

Up early for a day trip. Who's idea was this????

Buenos Aires The City

I like this place, we were up for breakfast (the best bacon I've eaten in a long time) and ready for a half day tour with Sandra which turned out to be very good as these things go. We saw lots of the cities famous landmarks. Went to see the grave of Eva Peron which was into the most impressive cemetery.  Beautiful mausoleums. Marble and ornate for the most part but some quite plain and simple. It was a very interesting place and home to many cats who walked with you if you gave them the slightest bit of attention.

The City is very stylish for the most part and has lots of trees and green space. Interestingly they want more green and the way forward is seen to be these vertical 'hanging' gardens suspended off walls. We saw a very impressive one. Looked fab.

It's got a very European feel about it, the architecture is varied old and new but generally sensitively done. The pavements are treacherous though full of pot hole and dog mess. They like their dogs, and they're not running loose in packs like Lima and La Paz but why oh why don't they clean up the dog mess it's everywhere.

After yesterday's pep talk about security and pick pockets I've been on red alert. I saw one woman give another a nod to acknowledge us 4 coming along (Di & Shaun and us 2) and I thought here we go. But, not to worry she was trying to get us into a leather shop. Too late though there were some lovely belts earlier on and I treated myself to a pair of ear rings.
It's a bit like a Faulty Towers sketch here. You know 'Don't mention the war!'.  The guide was talking of a war in a square (where it transpired there was a replica of a memorial in the Falklands) by the Cathedral. She didn't introduce it as such though and when I asked her was she referring to the Falklands War, she was shocked I'd asked. It's like the islands are never mentioned.

They've had a bit of a hard time here, as have most South American countries it seems, with right wing dictators. Up until the time of the Falklands really. She talks of the 'mothers of the lost who still parade to this day. Every week outside the government building. At the time of course it was to demand their missing children to be returned, many never did they simply disappeared.

There's s very sad memorial under a flyover, the foundations of which stand where a police station of that era stood. When they demolished it to make way for the new road a number of bodies, human remains were found. This was the 70's, hard to imagine isn't it?

Time and time again this trip has reinforced an appreciation of how lucky we are.

So we've walked and walked found a nice little Italian cafe for a salad for lunch. There's a big Italian community here and the biggest Jewish community outside of Israel and New York. That surprised me a bit as I've had Eichmann and lots of other nameless Nazi's who escaped from Europe after the end of the war. I'd not appreciated that lots of Jews would also make it their home.

We walked some more, eventually getting back to the Hotel having bumped into the 2 Australians and agreed to meet them at 7.30pm in the Hotel foyer to eat together. We're trying this BBQ place to-night. Some of the group went last night and this morning at breakfast were reporting the enormous portions. So it's two meals between 6 tonight.

I'm off to Mass tonight and Shaun (Donnelly) and Di are coming. I'm more surprised Shaun is coming out of the 2. He got sent to a Catholic Boarding school so very much a cradle catholic. Di though a very spiritual person isn't Catholic she's not sure if she's a Christian she says, though maybe I could be she adds as an afterthought; a considered one.

So, that's about it for today. Did I tell you about last night's meal! Last night was a lovely Italian with mountains of food that we couldn't eat, far too big s portion. The tour guide went home with a doggy bag. Aside from the usual bread at the start of the meal they put on the table the most delicious tomato sauce. I shall do that at home, it went down a treat with the bread.

El Alto Airport

Sitting waiting for the first of two flights to Buenos Aires. So off to Argentina today for 5 nights. The pace gets a bit gentler from now on and I can't say I'm sorry about that. I'm tired, sleep is not like home and I'm looking forward to a bit of a rest.

I think everyone is feeling the same.

I am looking forward to Argentina

That's it for now,  next blog be Argentima

Argentina Beunos Aires

What an impressive city. I think this is in a  big part because it's so culturally congruent with my own experience and also therefore because it's what and how Lima and La Paz aren't.

I had mixed emotions about coming here as my cousin Clifford who was a Sergeant in the Welsh Guards was killed on the Sir Galahad In Bluff Cove during the Falklands War. The television coverage of the burning ship has been in my mind.

I felt guilty about enjoying it so much, it's a bit like the time I bought a Japanese car and was concerned about how my father would feel. (He was in The Chindits and fought them in the gurgles of Burma,  behind the event lines for years during the war).

Anyhow I have lead those ghosts to rest though still respecting Clifford I intend to enjoy this place.

There are two other big first impressions, one a hugh silhouette portrait of Eva Peron on the side of a high rise block, as you drive into the city from the airport. The second was the Tour Guides considerable coverage of the issues related to security. Pick pockets in particular,  who have skills and degrees of sophistication and competence that Fagin would be proud of. So I've been on a war footing in that regard continually scanning front and behind as they work in teams. That hasn't helped the thinking about Clifford and the Falklands.

So, we went out last night to an Italian, en mass not far from the Hotel with Sandra, the Tour Guide. She did say that the portions were big but we all thought we could manage one whole dish. How wrong we were! Even I couldn't manage it. The food was good too.

A walk home and back to bed and all things considered a lovely sleep. Here I am Sunday morning looking forward to the day and I want to try and get to Mass this evening. Shaun said he might come I tentatively asked him and Di said she'd like to come which funnily enough didn't surprise me.

So that's where we're at other than to acknowledge it's a very attractive society, a cultured place. It's got a very European feel to it and that makes the Falklands War more difficult to accommodate.  One last observation. They've got a Harrods here but it's empty and almost derelict. I acknowledged the pity of that to Sandra   she agreed. I think she was a bit economical with the truth, there's a relationship to the Falklands War and Fayed the owner of Harrods pulled out, he is a royalist.

La Paz by day and night

So our day started with a guided tour of the city. We went high and low in a bus to do the ups - because they are ups, and the altitude makes you feel like a 90 year old, its really hard to exert yourself. We saw some lovely squares, full of life and vibrancy. The cathedral was lovely, none of this gold leaf every where, but behind the alter was a huge stained glass window. It was beautiful, it reminded me of the Chapel in Buckfast.

Then  we went to the local markets, there were some lovely artisan works, paintings and ceramics. The second market was full of homeopathic remedies, they are into natural age old remedies in a big way, not least because the majority of the population do no have access to conventional healthcare. As Marcello, the guide, acknowledged today if they need an operation and they cant pay - they die. Its as simple as that. Mortality on average is under 70 for both men and women. Women approx 68-69 and men less 66-67 years. Retirement is 65 so thats not a lot to look forward to is is. there is a lower retirement age for those working in hazardous conditions - mining and jobs involving chemicals or gases etc thats 55 *if the job hasnt killed you in the meantime.

There is no doubt that they are a very spiritual people, mostly catholic but its a catholicism thats laced with the traditional inca beliefs with a  spirituality which revolves around the natural world and living in symbiotic ways *Thats no different to what catholic teaching suggests either mind(. They are also very superstitious if thats the word. There were market stalls full of potions and amulets and offerings. The most noticible of which were dozens of dead alpaca foetuses and newborns. Apparently, alpacas are pregnant during the winter to give birth in the spring, but if its too cold they naturally abort. If its too cold when they are born, the newborns also die. The farmers air dry all of these casualties of the cold and when they have a sufficient number they sell them in La Paz where they are sold on to those people wishing to make offerings. They are considered to have power to address issues around fertility. But there are dozens of such offerings addressing all manner of woes. They must spend a significant amount of money. More than significant becasue they have so little monitarily anyway.

So then we went out of the city to a bit of peace to a valley that is acknowledged as having a particular beauty because of the geological rock formations. I say rock, I really mean clay with various layers of gravelly looking small stones. Erosion of rain and sun have created what can be described as stalagmites. While it is an attractive sight, the peace and quiet was all the more welcomed. The city is load, in your face, people everywhere and no real peace not even in the parks.

We went to lunch in a nice cafe come reaturant that the guide took us too then it was a taxi back to the hotel. The roads are frenetic, driving is a very dangerous business. There are people who have no respect for red lights. they will drive straight through and the chaos that ensues brings everything to a standstill. Im surprised that I havent seen far more accidents. Thats a bit of a miracle really.

So we got back to the hotel and I went to bed, it was the best afternoon nap Ive had in ages. So up at 6 and out with Craig and Elaine the 2 australians who have been travelling for weeks, today Elaine tells me is their 90th day on the road. I couldnt do it I know I couldnt. We were accompanied by Shaun the interior designer and Di shes retired *insurance( *its one of these spanish key boards again - its like the krypton factor trying to find a set of brackets, thats what you get when you press the usual bracket keys. Tis frustrating.

We all went out to tea, the Bolivians like afternoon tea. it was a little late but the place was thronging. So it was an oder of a banana split, I had a coffee ice cream sundat that was delicious, cake and icecreams of all sorts and Di had a chicken Caesar Salad. With drinks all that came to $36 so not bad.

Ive just come in from a walk down the street, you can buy anything on the street, there was even a man selling freshly squeezed organge juice. He squeezes them in front of you. Anything and everything, text books, food of all sorts, tissues, mobile phone accessories, jewellry, allsorts. I went into the Church next door, it was full of activity. Mass had just finished and they were beginning a service for first confirmation. I stayed a while and left as the proceedings continued - it didnt matter me leaving it wasnt at all obvious, people were coming in and out the whole time.

So now, I have to sleep. Its a very early start in the morning an alarm at 04.30 hours to get to the airport for the first of two flights tomorrow. because of the altitude we have to go a short distance as the planes cant cope with the fuel requirements as it takes so much fuel to get in the air at such altitude. i suppose its the same reason behind cars sounding like they are in the wrong gear the whole time fighting with any effort at acceleration.

So its Goodnight from La Paz. My next blog will be from Argentina I imagine.

Im thinking that this might as well be a personal diary really, because apart from you Haydn, no one else is commenting. Whatever, its been good to write as Id never be able to remember all that weve done and its been good to share it with anyone thats interested. It would be nice to see a couple of comments though!!!!!

Goodnight all xxx

La Paz

Here we go again, off for a guided tour of the city. This place is buzzing. It's today's equivalent of the Wild West. That's what comes to mind.

It's new,  they're building everywhere and as it's all individual families building their own homes so there's no homogeneity. It's just such a mess everywhere. 

But there's a vibrancy and a happiness that you don't see at home. There's something about the place that exudes positivity and optimism. Just like the days of the wild west I think.

They have faith too, maybe it could be described as simplistic when you see stalls of toy petrol stations, shops, houses. Not for children but for families to buy, to take to Church and pray for such good fortunes for themselves so that they can realise their dreams. Simplistic maybe but who am I to judge.

On a very salutary note as we were driving through El Alto last might there were scare crows hanging by the neck from lamp posts with the very clear message round their necks - you steal and we'll hang you. Taking justice into their own hands as the justice system fails them. I think the people are failed by the. Government in many ways. That's my take on it so far. But, they are just first impressions

Bye for now xxx

Lake Titicaca to La Paz

So an early start, a lovely breakfast and the bus to the border of Peru and Bolivia a ride that skirted the lake. It was beautiful this morning,  the sunrise and the sun on the lake it was glorious. It is much bigger than I imagined, more an inland see. With the fairly recent changes in borders and boundaries,  changes which resulted in the loss of Bolivias coastline Lake Titicaca is now home to Bolivias Navy

That sounds a bit odd but that's how it is.

We drove to Copacabana, there's a big Franciscan Church there where people come every day to have their cars blessed by a Priest. There's a whole industry grown up to support these blessings so I wasn't altogether comfortable with the whole thing. The Church looked fairly modern from the outside but the inside was adorned with gold.

As I went inside there was a Mass going on, the place was packed. I stood through most of the Mass, the Consecretion and the gift of Peace and the Agnus Dei but I had to leave then as the bus was going.  What can you do about that I ask myself.

So we drove to the border exited Peru and entered Bolivia both processes managed by equally officious border control officers.

Then it was to the hydrofoil which we've been off and on all day visiting islands on the lake. Moon island which had some fabulous pre Inca ruins, then to the sun island where we had lunch in a restaurant with the most spectacular views.  It was worth the climb up the steps to it from the dock at altitude at that. Any exertion and you struggle.

After lunch there was a bit of a diversion to the floating islands. Made of reeds these islands sustain a number of families who barter with those living on the main land for what they can't get themselves with the fish and eggs that they hunt.

I went for a bit of a ride in a reed canoe and so peaceful it was too after the racket of the hydrofoil and boat. Their skills of building reed boats, some quite big things that have crossed oceans are famous apparently.  That fact had passed me by I have to say.

So as I'm writing this I'm watching the sun go down and a full moon light the sky. The same full moon that you see at home. Somehow makes me feel close and at the same time so far away.

I think I'm a bit homesick. Will have some more to say about Bolivia and specifically La Paz tomorrow.  Hopefully it won't be too long before we get to the hotel!!! We're staying there for 2 nights Thank God so less travelling.  There's been too much of that I think. Though the scenery has been spectacular,  the natural world is wonderful and I've enjoyed that and the company and the fun so I don't want to end sounding too miserable. Just a bit tired xxx

La Raya to Puno

So we board the train with our wares and the urgency of those trying to sell theirs still ringing in my ears. This train runs three times a week and it is then that these women have the opportunity to sell their produce. I can't imagine there'd be too many other opportunities as we were in the middle of nowhere.

It's a hard life in some respects but there is a simplicity of working and living off the land as an extended family I find that attractive.

So lunch followed at a very restful pace. The starter was a salad, two salads in fact one pearl barley, corn and pesto and the other a quinoa and sweet and chilli affair, very small done of cucumber,  sweet pepper, mango and chilli peppers. It was delicious.

The main course was a choice of chicken, trout or a pasta bake. They all looked good, I had chicken with fresh mixed vegetables and potatoes,  that had previously been dried. I'd seen them in the market yesterday, they look like pebbles. They were tasty, if rather floury.
Dessert was a strawberry cheesecake and very nice it was too.

On we trundle we've lost the mountains, they're all round us in the distance but it's now open plains. Still worked, seemingly random areas of ploughed earth, sheep, cows, fields of alpaca. This apparently is the livestock heartland of Peru. It's not managed in large scale ways though still small farmhouses, villages here and there but very few and far between.

It's coming up to 3.30pm now, we've been on this train since 8am, 7 hours and 30 minutes. Two and a half hours to go. It's gone quit quickly really. I'm in the bar now, near to the open back of the train,  more airy. It's quite hot, so much for the warm coat, hat and scarf that was packed.

Happy hour's just starting two drinks for the price of one!!! Another party at the back of the coach, dancing at altitude not advised, it's exhausting. The band were from Puno this time, good musicians but they had the equivalent of the Friday afternoon last session as people weren't quite so enthusiastic!!!

Signs of a new town development,  lots of new building,  it's sprawling but what do they do? It looks a miserable place, drab, no colour, no green areas and I can't imagine mains water and sewerage.

Some expanses of water must be nearing Puno and Lake Titicaca as tea is being served.....

We've just gone through a town, city size really, it went on forever. Juliaca,  little more than a slum. I don't think I've seen anything like it. The stalls of the sellers were up to the railway lines, intact they had to move out of the way to let the train pass only to go back once we passed through. The people were smiling and waving though, what is it all about I ask myself

18.15 hrs and still on the train!!!!!!

18.56 hrs just arrived at the station, just waiting for our luggage to be taken off before we alight. Been a long last hour!!!

Lovely room overlooking Lake Titicaca and the city of Puno

Goodnight all

La Raya

We're at 4319m, the highest point of the trip. A stop for 10 minutes with a market and a Church waiting to greet us. The scenery is fantastic,  mountains all round with snow covered tops. The sky is blue and cloudless, it is beautiful.  In some ways I think these people have a good life, it's hard and no doubt they have stresses of their own.

Pips eye caught a colourful scarf, table runner affair. So the lady was happy with the sale of a second scarf. She let me take her picture, I tried to tell her how beautiful the scenery is, I do wish I could speak Spanish.

So back on the train and now as we start going downhill to Puno lunch is served, to follow.....

The Andean Explorer

Well, what a train. It's a touch of the Orient Express. Very comfortable seats, linen table clothes, table lamps and a bud  vase with a single red rose on the table. It is lovely.

Just departing on our 10 hour trip at 08.06am. Sit back and enjoy I say to myself. A warm welcome from Peru Rail and an announcement of three scheduled stops, breakfast, lunch, drinks on request and some live music over the tannoy. The announcements in Spanish, English and French.

Experiences of opposites again as we drive through the slums of Cusco. Just makes you realise how very lucky you are and I thank God.

Some 15 mins later we leave Cusco and pick up speed, the road and rail side by side, no barriers even at the cross roads of the rail and the road, just frantic blowing of the trains horn.

The journey continues the scenery gradually changes, more agricultural even in reasonably built up arras you see a cow or a couple of sheep in someone's back yard. The dogs now roaming in small groups making a sport out of chasing and barking at the train.

The houses are much tidier much more well kept some even have bright cof ts of paint.

On we go, complimentary fruit salad with puffed wheat and other grains.  Then came the pisco sour, 2 for me as Elaine didn't want here's followed by the life music and dancing.  You didn't know I could do the twist did you?!!! You'd be right if you thought not but I gave it a go. Not for the faint hearted at altitude.

On we go, fantastic scenery and a stop at the highest point La Raya.

Cusco to Puna

So it's another early start and it looks like the 16 on our group are dropping like flies!!! It's the altitude,  some people are succumbing to these vague headaches, nausea, breathlessness and generally feeling unwell. We're ok, our only symptoms are a general abdominal expansion caused by the ingestion of so many calories.

Just sat in the quiet of the morning waiting for the bus to arrive. More to follow.

Poroy to Cusco

Poroy was the end of the line, so it was the bus to Cusco to the hotel that mentioned at the end of the previous blog. So we woke up to a sunny but chilly morning in Cusco. The old centre of Cusco is lovely, big old squares lots of highly decorated churches and grassy parks. The newer bits are one hell of a mess.  Though I've been assured that there is building regulation it's also been acknowledged that no one takes a blind bit of notice.

It's such a pity as the first impressions are not good, it can't be good for the people living in it too.

So today we've, the three of us Pips, Di and myself, walked and walked. Churches, squares, shops and markets - the food market was fantastic I would have stopped there for a taste of lunch but Pips wouldnt! Probably just as well.

We met two ladies from Puno who were quite entertained by me for some reason. We eventually all got to know where we were all respectively from. They were more than entertained when I told them we are going to Puno!!! 

We did a bit of shopping, a wooden photo frame, that's been taken apart to travel. While he was off dismantling the thing Di and I were trying to pull one out from a pile, that set off a bit of movement and one came crashing down and hit me on the head. Serve me right I suppose for messing about with his piles!!! Don't read that out of context will you!

I've also bought a wooden spoon for 1 sol, 25p. Our second buy was a carved guord that Pips fancied. That took a bit of negotiating and the acquisition of two $10 bills. But we got there in the end.

So it's dinner tonight a relatively early night for breakfast and departure at 07.15hrs for the train to Puno. I hadn't realised I'd signed up for 10 hours on a train. The company is the winner of a South American luxury train award. I should also acknowledge that's it's listed as one of the great train journeys of the world - Cusco to Puno, on the banks of Lake Titicaca.

Back to today we tried another chicken empanada for lunch this time with some pickled onion and chilli. Good they were too. I shall be tackling these when we get home. It's a bit of an exotic pasty that's all.

So it was the walk back to the Hotel and here we are having a 5 minutes, a little rest before were out for dinner tonight.

I shall need a rest after this holiday I think

Is anyone beside you Haydn reading this I wonder?!!!

https://www.google.com.pe/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g294314-d1095891-Reviews-PeruRail_Andean_Explorer-Cusco_Cusco_Region.html&ved=0CCEQFjADahUKEwi-743b-_7GAhUCax4KHa8cCfU&usg=AFQjCNH3JN_w3oP9rUfYYTHzjEQku_-zWQ

Fireworks like bombs going off tonight. It's a weekend of celebrations,  the anniversary of the independence of Peru

Machu Picchu to Poroy

It's been a lazy day today, a long leisurely breakfast with Di and Shaun. Then we sat and talked some in the garden answered joined Craig and Elaine. They are travelling For 14 weeks in total,  took her 5 months to plan she said.

We all went for lunch and we've at last tried a chicken empanada. Tasty again, good food.

So it was off for the train, we arrived closely followed by our luggage.  This is the way to do it!!!

The train services here are quote a refined affair. All seats have personal tables and just into the start of the journey they are laid ready for a snack and a drink. Something saviour, sweet,  some fruit some peanuts,  sugar coated with sesame. Delicious.

Then come round the drinks trolley, and the attendant shaking cocktails down the carriage. I ask you! Can you imagine BR doing that?

So the journey continues with a jester of sorts providing entertainment, joined by passengers dancing on the aisle. This was followed by a fashion show of sorts, the attendants wearing the goods for sale the aisle being turned into a catwalk!!!

Arrived in the dark, the light goes quite quickly.  Met at the station by Fernando got on the bus to get to the hotel. The traffic was chaotic but we made good time. Crossing the road to get to the Hotel nearly saw the both of us off tonight these drivers are mad, more than that dangerous.

Anyway, supper later here we are in a lovely hotel, tired and ready for sleep.

Machu Picchu Highlights in photos

https://goo.gl/photos/xctDaovou82GCK9h8

Machu Picchu

This deserves a post all of its own.

The sight when you walk around a corner following the path to access the site to see it for the first time is incredible.

Even before that the mountains all round and the sheer faces that surround you, it's awesome. The physical geography is astounding. You're looking down onto them almost. It's like being on top of the world.

Last but not least is the road up, the bus ride is like something out of an Indiana Jones movie. It was horrendous. I don't mind telling you I prayed all the way up and down. They drive at break neck speed and it's a narrow road with just enough room for the two buses to pass in most places but the sheer drop off and hair pin bends. My God it was a nightmare.

I don't know what I was expecting really. It's hardly going to be the A470 is it? I think the state of the roads, there's no safety barriers, the steepness of the road and the vertical wall of the mountain opposite looking at you makes it a nightmare. You'll gather from that I won't be going up there again!!!

Back to the place itself,  it is majestic, built they think for the royalty of the Inca world. Maintained they think by 300 or so but the population swelled to over a 1000 when they were in residence.

The whole place is a feat of man's ingenuity, engineering and spirituality. As well as being a royal residence it's also a temple to the gods of sun, water and probably a few more. The buildings are built in alignment to the sun as it rises and falls. There is water and they built fountains and irrigation troughs in the stone. It is in many ways beyond words.

How many people and how long it took is hard to imagine. 

There is a majesty to the place that makes it spiritual. I can't really explain that. You have to feel it.

I shall try and post photos but I think I'm going to have trouble as I haven't managed it so far.

Urubamba to Machu Picchu

Here we are 5.30am wide awake.  I find myself thinking of last night's dinner. I was too tired to write about it last night. This restaurant is fine dining and the whole hotel high living that most of the people living in these mountains have never seen. I have to say it makes me feel uncomfortable.

There is another perspective driving through this Valley up to the hotel the guide says that the people living here aren't poor. They are self sufficient farming and enough livestock to keep them comfortable. Sheep were being taken from one place to another like dogs on leads! Dogs they deserve a mention.

The Peruvians love dogs, pedigree as well as these street wise nondescript things you see lazing at the roadside watching the world go by, just out of reach of the wheels of coaches as they thunder past.

Back to the people, they're certainly not poor in terms of the natural landscape. The mountains surround them like gently sloping cathedrals. Families are large extended families supporting one another and Saul our guide suggested that they all shared what they had with one another.  That's not a poor life.

It's a Catholic country, Saul joked yesterday saying that all villages have a football field and a church. That's right and they know Wales (and Gareth Bale!). Lots of houses have also got two small animals with a cross positioned on the top of the roof. I shall find out more about that today.

Dinner was good last night the food and the company. We were joined by Diane and Shaun. Both Londonders travelling alone. Diane is a very charismatic woman, I think she's very aware of what and who is important in her life. She's a widow of 8 years her husband Richard died from oesophageal cancer. 6 years ago she retired from her job as an insurance broker and two years after that she bought a round the world ticket and off she went alone. She's travelled alone ever since enjoying all she does, sharing the experience with her fellow travellers like last night over dinner. I think her husband Richard would be proud of her.

Shawn is less assured I would suggest, he's an interior designer and you find him taking lots of photos of furniture and getting quite upset when he spots a picture not hanging straight anywhere! Hrs divorced with a couple of grown up daughters and he's been round the world with organised tour groups. I like being organised he says though he certainly doesn't want another wife; so maybe he doesn't want to be that organised.

Our other travellers are very varied an Australian couple Elaine and whatshisname, I can't remember. They're on the last trip of a three month tour of North and South America, they've just  been to Cuba. She's a bit jaded really, tired after so much travelling. I certainly couldn't contemplate doing so much travelling like this for so long. She's a bit like me with this blog snapping away with her ipad and writing up everyday so as to order her memory for when they get home to Sidney.

Then there Peter and Kate from just outside London. He likes food and doesn't stop talking, she admits she eats to live and likes nothing better than to sit in the bar nibbling the same rather than go for a meal. Make of that what you like!!!

Then there's Bella and Harry an Asian couple from Ghana now living in London. A gentle couple I haven't spent too much time with yet. Finally there's Derek and Lilian, from Aberdeen. Time flies writing this breakfast beckons and Machu Picchu!!!!!

Lima to Cusco

Well, first of all I have to mention the delicious breakfast. We were so tired last night with the jetlag we went to bed without eating. That was ok, I've been told I can live off my hump.

So, having gone so early to bed I was awake at five am, and Pips even earlier. We went to breakfast, after a stint of trying to publish this blog, to the most marvellous belly pork. It's deep fried, yes I know the arteries have gone into spasm.  But believe me it wasn't greasy, it was delicious, served up with black beans. It was scrummy.

Then we were off to the airport for the flight to Cusco. I was glad to leave Lima, too frantic. A dusty, sad looking place devoid of green. Home to 10 million people most of them Dick Whittingtons looking for their fortune and a better life. It's a sad place to my mind.

The flight was delayed but boy was it worth waiting for. Flying up into the mountains,  it was disconcerting eyeballing mountains out of both left and right sides of the plane without having to look down. The scenery is breathtaking,  it is beyond words, majestic. The beauty is spellbinding, I haven't seen anything like it.

It's like some of those landings in the French Alps, but these mountains were closer some how. It was almost like you could touch them.

So, we left the madness.The airport at Cusco for a bus to he city, again sprawling filling the valley floor, now they're building up the sides. It's all a bit worrying, in the name of tourism but I feel that it will become less and less attractive as now people are accommodating tourists further and further higher into the mountains in the villages that straddle the main road on the way up into the mountains to Urubamba.

Before we left Cusco City we went to an ancient Inca temple. The Temple of the Sun. An imposing place even today. The foundations still remain and were put to good use 100's of years later when the Dominicans built a Church and a Monastery that stand today.

Climbing out of the city we stopped for lunch at a restaurant perched on the mountain side, spectacular views again. Good food too, corn and broad beans and plates of cheese to share to start. Good Peruvian food, I like it, really tasty food. Quinoa Soup was my choice and Pips a Causa. Something like a sausage roll but the middle was chicken and avocado and the pastry potato. Sounds not so good but it was delicious,  I had some!!!

So back on the bus to be driven to Urubamba, here we are via a market. Kids dressed in traditional garb with sheep wrapped in shawls wanting you to take their photos. I didn't oblige with that though did share my rhubarb and custard sweets! I think I can say with a degree of certainty that it was their first taste of such delights...

Will try and post this and some photos tonight.

A lovely day, has been amazing and challenging all in one

Lima, City of 10 million

Busy day sightseeing. Takes a while to  tune in " using a Peruvian key board and all the characters are not easily found so excuse the poor punctuation here. driving me mad.

As I was saying, takes a while to tune in, but really nice people, friendly and ready to give a smile. Its a city of extremes, like many cities of the world. Those that have and those that dont. Only 30% of the population are in receipt of any kind of healthcare, lots of kids dont go to school. Lots of private schools and you see brightly coloured uniformed snakes of children hand in hand walking round. They are the lucky ones, a very agricultural country so lots of kids dont receive any education as they work the land.

We went to a market this morning, the food was really good. Lots of fresh fruit and vegetables. Lots of herbs and big choices of many types of potatoes. They've got a bit of a thing about potatoes here. Theres a potato seed bank here in Lima, hundreds of varieties.

It does make you think, supermarkets are a fairly recent introduction. Very little in the way of processed ready meals. People buy fresh and cook each day.

The food is good. I've enjoyed all I've had. Thats another thing, theyve got menus for the locals and another version of peruvian food for the visitors. Lots of it too, we shared a meal lunchtime. Beef and rice, a fried banana and an egg with some hot sauce. Very tasty it was too.

Cant insert a photo, will add later.

if youve had more than one installment of this my apologies. Had a devil of a job uploading this from the phone, new at the computer in the hotel. Early Saturday morning, off to breakfast then flying to Cusco, Only an hours flight, be like popping on a bus!!!

More to follow tonight, will update you on our fellow travellers......

Arrived in Lima midnight UK time

A long flight 11 hrs 45 mins, 4 films, snoozes, some reading and supplemented with three mini pork pies here we are. Views from the plane spectacular even at 35,000 feet

Sat in a bus to go to the Hotel. Just 19.10 hrs Lima time but 1.12 am Friday at home.

Bustling and humid. Have met 8 others on the trip, I'll reserve judgement till I'm firing on full cylinders.  Daniel, the guide, is telling us it's safe to walk around, that's always a worry!!

Driving like madmen! Beeping horns, driving where they like. It's a wonder anyone has wing mirrors.

They've got Macro!!!

Enough for tonight, too tired.

First Leg London to Madrid

An early start but a lovely morning, flight a little late and the whole thing very manageable.

On arrival in Madrid we searched out a bar and my first words of Spanish were uttered 'hola, dos cerveza por favor'.  I should add my first and practically my only words of Spanish!!!

This airport is very stylish. Cardiff has a long way to go.

So we were sauntering through the Duty Free and Pips saw one of those information displays looked up our flight some 90 minutes to departure only to see

GATE CLOSED

She was off like a rocket, second only to the time she sprinted through Amsterdam when we nearly missed a train to Schipol Airport. We got to the gate to be told it was a mistake!!!!!

Such are the joys of international travelling, at least we'd finished our beer and very nice it was too. Four others on the same flight from the UK had left theirs in the mad panic induced by the false gate closed sign.

I thought it couldn't have been right as I was protesting in the sprint to Gate 57 but those of you who know Pips and her ways will know that fell on deaf ears.

I'm now being ushered to the queue!!!

The joys of blogging, tentative steps!

Having posted the first instalment I'm not sure how to tell anyone how to see it!!! Oh the joys of technology. Haydn - help!!! Miguel where are you!!!

South America 1

South America Here We Come!

Well these are the first tentative lines, a foray, into the world of writing a blog. I’ve almost put myself off before I really started when I googled ‘How to write a Blog’ got lots of advice that only served to put me on the back foot. So without further ado here goes.

I did a google search asking the question ‘What is a blog?’ and the first of millions of responses was:

blog

blɒɡ/

noun

1. 1.
2. a regularly updated website or web page, typically one run by an individual or small group, that is written in an informal or conversational style.

verb

1. 1.
2. add new material to or regularly update a blog.
3. "it's about a week since I last blogged"

So armed with that operational definition off we go.

So to introduce the point of all this and to make reference to the title ‘southamericaherewecome2015’ this blog will be a blog outlining the preparations for and travels through South America. This holiday has been booked for quite some time and will involve travelling through Peru, Bolivia, Argentina, Uruguay and finally Brazil. More detail to follow, but suffice to say its going to be a busy and exciting time and part of the reason for considering the writing of a blog was to both share those experiences with anyone who wants to read them. Secondly, it was to capture the trip, in the moment, with some story and reflection so we can look back at our leisure in time to come.

Its not compulsory to follow, I say this both as a reassurance to all and an acknowledgement going back to all the advice I started reading it was asserted in no uncertain terms if people found it boring they wouldnt bother reading (or perhaps the term is ‘following’!).

I should acknowledge the ‘we’ in this adventure. The instigator, the travel researcher, guru and guide is Pips. Having retired from work last year, Pips began researching and planning this trip, a trip that she had always wanted to make.

Me, if I’m honest it wasn't on my list of places to go, but that doesn't mean I don't want to go or that I’m not looking forward to it. I am enormously thankful, it’s a trip of a lifetime and one that I am quite excited about and very much appreciate that we are lucky to be able to plan a trip such as this.

So my fellow blogger (getting the terminology right you see!) is Pips.

The catalyst for this trip, is retirement and a longstanding desire of Pips to go to South America. The first problem, if problem’s the word, was the thinking and ultimate decision of where to go and what to see as the place is enormous.

So researching, decision making, planning and prepping all but done we’re in the final stages of ordering currencies and making endless lists of planning what we’re packing.  That’s no simple business given the venues and the temperature variations. It’s around minus 4 degrees at night and around plus 15 degrees in La Paz but once we’re out of the Andes (no jokes please about advancing up the Wristies!!!) things get positively barmy with highs of 25 degrees during the day and 19 degrees during the night in Rio.

Thats it for now,if you’re brave enough watch this space!!!