Buenos Aires The City

I like this place, we were up for breakfast (the best bacon I've eaten in a long time) and ready for a half day tour with Sandra which turned out to be very good as these things go. We saw lots of the cities famous landmarks. Went to see the grave of Eva Peron which was into the most impressive cemetery.  Beautiful mausoleums. Marble and ornate for the most part but some quite plain and simple. It was a very interesting place and home to many cats who walked with you if you gave them the slightest bit of attention.

The City is very stylish for the most part and has lots of trees and green space. Interestingly they want more green and the way forward is seen to be these vertical 'hanging' gardens suspended off walls. We saw a very impressive one. Looked fab.

It's got a very European feel about it, the architecture is varied old and new but generally sensitively done. The pavements are treacherous though full of pot hole and dog mess. They like their dogs, and they're not running loose in packs like Lima and La Paz but why oh why don't they clean up the dog mess it's everywhere.

After yesterday's pep talk about security and pick pockets I've been on red alert. I saw one woman give another a nod to acknowledge us 4 coming along (Di & Shaun and us 2) and I thought here we go. But, not to worry she was trying to get us into a leather shop. Too late though there were some lovely belts earlier on and I treated myself to a pair of ear rings.
It's a bit like a Faulty Towers sketch here. You know 'Don't mention the war!'.  The guide was talking of a war in a square (where it transpired there was a replica of a memorial in the Falklands) by the Cathedral. She didn't introduce it as such though and when I asked her was she referring to the Falklands War, she was shocked I'd asked. It's like the islands are never mentioned.

They've had a bit of a hard time here, as have most South American countries it seems, with right wing dictators. Up until the time of the Falklands really. She talks of the 'mothers of the lost who still parade to this day. Every week outside the government building. At the time of course it was to demand their missing children to be returned, many never did they simply disappeared.

There's s very sad memorial under a flyover, the foundations of which stand where a police station of that era stood. When they demolished it to make way for the new road a number of bodies, human remains were found. This was the 70's, hard to imagine isn't it?

Time and time again this trip has reinforced an appreciation of how lucky we are.

So we've walked and walked found a nice little Italian cafe for a salad for lunch. There's a big Italian community here and the biggest Jewish community outside of Israel and New York. That surprised me a bit as I've had Eichmann and lots of other nameless Nazi's who escaped from Europe after the end of the war. I'd not appreciated that lots of Jews would also make it their home.

We walked some more, eventually getting back to the Hotel having bumped into the 2 Australians and agreed to meet them at 7.30pm in the Hotel foyer to eat together. We're trying this BBQ place to-night. Some of the group went last night and this morning at breakfast were reporting the enormous portions. So it's two meals between 6 tonight.

I'm off to Mass tonight and Shaun (Donnelly) and Di are coming. I'm more surprised Shaun is coming out of the 2. He got sent to a Catholic Boarding school so very much a cradle catholic. Di though a very spiritual person isn't Catholic she's not sure if she's a Christian she says, though maybe I could be she adds as an afterthought; a considered one.

So, that's about it for today. Did I tell you about last night's meal! Last night was a lovely Italian with mountains of food that we couldn't eat, far too big s portion. The tour guide went home with a doggy bag. Aside from the usual bread at the start of the meal they put on the table the most delicious tomato sauce. I shall do that at home, it went down a treat with the bread.

El Alto Airport

Sitting waiting for the first of two flights to Buenos Aires. So off to Argentina today for 5 nights. The pace gets a bit gentler from now on and I can't say I'm sorry about that. I'm tired, sleep is not like home and I'm looking forward to a bit of a rest.

I think everyone is feeling the same.

I am looking forward to Argentina

That's it for now,  next blog be Argentima

Argentina Beunos Aires

What an impressive city. I think this is in a  big part because it's so culturally congruent with my own experience and also therefore because it's what and how Lima and La Paz aren't.

I had mixed emotions about coming here as my cousin Clifford who was a Sergeant in the Welsh Guards was killed on the Sir Galahad In Bluff Cove during the Falklands War. The television coverage of the burning ship has been in my mind.

I felt guilty about enjoying it so much, it's a bit like the time I bought a Japanese car and was concerned about how my father would feel. (He was in The Chindits and fought them in the gurgles of Burma,  behind the event lines for years during the war).

Anyhow I have lead those ghosts to rest though still respecting Clifford I intend to enjoy this place.

There are two other big first impressions, one a hugh silhouette portrait of Eva Peron on the side of a high rise block, as you drive into the city from the airport. The second was the Tour Guides considerable coverage of the issues related to security. Pick pockets in particular,  who have skills and degrees of sophistication and competence that Fagin would be proud of. So I've been on a war footing in that regard continually scanning front and behind as they work in teams. That hasn't helped the thinking about Clifford and the Falklands.

So, we went out last night to an Italian, en mass not far from the Hotel with Sandra, the Tour Guide. She did say that the portions were big but we all thought we could manage one whole dish. How wrong we were! Even I couldn't manage it. The food was good too.

A walk home and back to bed and all things considered a lovely sleep. Here I am Sunday morning looking forward to the day and I want to try and get to Mass this evening. Shaun said he might come I tentatively asked him and Di said she'd like to come which funnily enough didn't surprise me.

So that's where we're at other than to acknowledge it's a very attractive society, a cultured place. It's got a very European feel to it and that makes the Falklands War more difficult to accommodate.  One last observation. They've got a Harrods here but it's empty and almost derelict. I acknowledged the pity of that to Sandra   she agreed. I think she was a bit economical with the truth, there's a relationship to the Falklands War and Fayed the owner of Harrods pulled out, he is a royalist.

La Paz by day and night

So our day started with a guided tour of the city. We went high and low in a bus to do the ups - because they are ups, and the altitude makes you feel like a 90 year old, its really hard to exert yourself. We saw some lovely squares, full of life and vibrancy. The cathedral was lovely, none of this gold leaf every where, but behind the alter was a huge stained glass window. It was beautiful, it reminded me of the Chapel in Buckfast.

Then  we went to the local markets, there were some lovely artisan works, paintings and ceramics. The second market was full of homeopathic remedies, they are into natural age old remedies in a big way, not least because the majority of the population do no have access to conventional healthcare. As Marcello, the guide, acknowledged today if they need an operation and they cant pay - they die. Its as simple as that. Mortality on average is under 70 for both men and women. Women approx 68-69 and men less 66-67 years. Retirement is 65 so thats not a lot to look forward to is is. there is a lower retirement age for those working in hazardous conditions - mining and jobs involving chemicals or gases etc thats 55 *if the job hasnt killed you in the meantime.

There is no doubt that they are a very spiritual people, mostly catholic but its a catholicism thats laced with the traditional inca beliefs with a  spirituality which revolves around the natural world and living in symbiotic ways *Thats no different to what catholic teaching suggests either mind(. They are also very superstitious if thats the word. There were market stalls full of potions and amulets and offerings. The most noticible of which were dozens of dead alpaca foetuses and newborns. Apparently, alpacas are pregnant during the winter to give birth in the spring, but if its too cold they naturally abort. If its too cold when they are born, the newborns also die. The farmers air dry all of these casualties of the cold and when they have a sufficient number they sell them in La Paz where they are sold on to those people wishing to make offerings. They are considered to have power to address issues around fertility. But there are dozens of such offerings addressing all manner of woes. They must spend a significant amount of money. More than significant becasue they have so little monitarily anyway.

So then we went out of the city to a bit of peace to a valley that is acknowledged as having a particular beauty because of the geological rock formations. I say rock, I really mean clay with various layers of gravelly looking small stones. Erosion of rain and sun have created what can be described as stalagmites. While it is an attractive sight, the peace and quiet was all the more welcomed. The city is load, in your face, people everywhere and no real peace not even in the parks.

We went to lunch in a nice cafe come reaturant that the guide took us too then it was a taxi back to the hotel. The roads are frenetic, driving is a very dangerous business. There are people who have no respect for red lights. they will drive straight through and the chaos that ensues brings everything to a standstill. Im surprised that I havent seen far more accidents. Thats a bit of a miracle really.

So we got back to the hotel and I went to bed, it was the best afternoon nap Ive had in ages. So up at 6 and out with Craig and Elaine the 2 australians who have been travelling for weeks, today Elaine tells me is their 90th day on the road. I couldnt do it I know I couldnt. We were accompanied by Shaun the interior designer and Di shes retired *insurance( *its one of these spanish key boards again - its like the krypton factor trying to find a set of brackets, thats what you get when you press the usual bracket keys. Tis frustrating.

We all went out to tea, the Bolivians like afternoon tea. it was a little late but the place was thronging. So it was an oder of a banana split, I had a coffee ice cream sundat that was delicious, cake and icecreams of all sorts and Di had a chicken Caesar Salad. With drinks all that came to $36 so not bad.

Ive just come in from a walk down the street, you can buy anything on the street, there was even a man selling freshly squeezed organge juice. He squeezes them in front of you. Anything and everything, text books, food of all sorts, tissues, mobile phone accessories, jewellry, allsorts. I went into the Church next door, it was full of activity. Mass had just finished and they were beginning a service for first confirmation. I stayed a while and left as the proceedings continued - it didnt matter me leaving it wasnt at all obvious, people were coming in and out the whole time.

So now, I have to sleep. Its a very early start in the morning an alarm at 04.30 hours to get to the airport for the first of two flights tomorrow. because of the altitude we have to go a short distance as the planes cant cope with the fuel requirements as it takes so much fuel to get in the air at such altitude. i suppose its the same reason behind cars sounding like they are in the wrong gear the whole time fighting with any effort at acceleration.

So its Goodnight from La Paz. My next blog will be from Argentina I imagine.

Im thinking that this might as well be a personal diary really, because apart from you Haydn, no one else is commenting. Whatever, its been good to write as Id never be able to remember all that weve done and its been good to share it with anyone thats interested. It would be nice to see a couple of comments though!!!!!

Goodnight all xxx

La Paz

Here we go again, off for a guided tour of the city. This place is buzzing. It's today's equivalent of the Wild West. That's what comes to mind.

It's new,  they're building everywhere and as it's all individual families building their own homes so there's no homogeneity. It's just such a mess everywhere. 

But there's a vibrancy and a happiness that you don't see at home. There's something about the place that exudes positivity and optimism. Just like the days of the wild west I think.

They have faith too, maybe it could be described as simplistic when you see stalls of toy petrol stations, shops, houses. Not for children but for families to buy, to take to Church and pray for such good fortunes for themselves so that they can realise their dreams. Simplistic maybe but who am I to judge.

On a very salutary note as we were driving through El Alto last might there were scare crows hanging by the neck from lamp posts with the very clear message round their necks - you steal and we'll hang you. Taking justice into their own hands as the justice system fails them. I think the people are failed by the. Government in many ways. That's my take on it so far. But, they are just first impressions

Bye for now xxx

Lake Titicaca to La Paz

So an early start, a lovely breakfast and the bus to the border of Peru and Bolivia a ride that skirted the lake. It was beautiful this morning,  the sunrise and the sun on the lake it was glorious. It is much bigger than I imagined, more an inland see. With the fairly recent changes in borders and boundaries,  changes which resulted in the loss of Bolivias coastline Lake Titicaca is now home to Bolivias Navy

That sounds a bit odd but that's how it is.

We drove to Copacabana, there's a big Franciscan Church there where people come every day to have their cars blessed by a Priest. There's a whole industry grown up to support these blessings so I wasn't altogether comfortable with the whole thing. The Church looked fairly modern from the outside but the inside was adorned with gold.

As I went inside there was a Mass going on, the place was packed. I stood through most of the Mass, the Consecretion and the gift of Peace and the Agnus Dei but I had to leave then as the bus was going.  What can you do about that I ask myself.

So we drove to the border exited Peru and entered Bolivia both processes managed by equally officious border control officers.

Then it was to the hydrofoil which we've been off and on all day visiting islands on the lake. Moon island which had some fabulous pre Inca ruins, then to the sun island where we had lunch in a restaurant with the most spectacular views.  It was worth the climb up the steps to it from the dock at altitude at that. Any exertion and you struggle.

After lunch there was a bit of a diversion to the floating islands. Made of reeds these islands sustain a number of families who barter with those living on the main land for what they can't get themselves with the fish and eggs that they hunt.

I went for a bit of a ride in a reed canoe and so peaceful it was too after the racket of the hydrofoil and boat. Their skills of building reed boats, some quite big things that have crossed oceans are famous apparently.  That fact had passed me by I have to say.

So as I'm writing this I'm watching the sun go down and a full moon light the sky. The same full moon that you see at home. Somehow makes me feel close and at the same time so far away.

I think I'm a bit homesick. Will have some more to say about Bolivia and specifically La Paz tomorrow.  Hopefully it won't be too long before we get to the hotel!!! We're staying there for 2 nights Thank God so less travelling.  There's been too much of that I think. Though the scenery has been spectacular,  the natural world is wonderful and I've enjoyed that and the company and the fun so I don't want to end sounding too miserable. Just a bit tired xxx

La Raya to Puno

So we board the train with our wares and the urgency of those trying to sell theirs still ringing in my ears. This train runs three times a week and it is then that these women have the opportunity to sell their produce. I can't imagine there'd be too many other opportunities as we were in the middle of nowhere.

It's a hard life in some respects but there is a simplicity of working and living off the land as an extended family I find that attractive.

So lunch followed at a very restful pace. The starter was a salad, two salads in fact one pearl barley, corn and pesto and the other a quinoa and sweet and chilli affair, very small done of cucumber,  sweet pepper, mango and chilli peppers. It was delicious.

The main course was a choice of chicken, trout or a pasta bake. They all looked good, I had chicken with fresh mixed vegetables and potatoes,  that had previously been dried. I'd seen them in the market yesterday, they look like pebbles. They were tasty, if rather floury.
Dessert was a strawberry cheesecake and very nice it was too.

On we trundle we've lost the mountains, they're all round us in the distance but it's now open plains. Still worked, seemingly random areas of ploughed earth, sheep, cows, fields of alpaca. This apparently is the livestock heartland of Peru. It's not managed in large scale ways though still small farmhouses, villages here and there but very few and far between.

It's coming up to 3.30pm now, we've been on this train since 8am, 7 hours and 30 minutes. Two and a half hours to go. It's gone quit quickly really. I'm in the bar now, near to the open back of the train,  more airy. It's quite hot, so much for the warm coat, hat and scarf that was packed.

Happy hour's just starting two drinks for the price of one!!! Another party at the back of the coach, dancing at altitude not advised, it's exhausting. The band were from Puno this time, good musicians but they had the equivalent of the Friday afternoon last session as people weren't quite so enthusiastic!!!

Signs of a new town development,  lots of new building,  it's sprawling but what do they do? It looks a miserable place, drab, no colour, no green areas and I can't imagine mains water and sewerage.

Some expanses of water must be nearing Puno and Lake Titicaca as tea is being served.....

We've just gone through a town, city size really, it went on forever. Juliaca,  little more than a slum. I don't think I've seen anything like it. The stalls of the sellers were up to the railway lines, intact they had to move out of the way to let the train pass only to go back once we passed through. The people were smiling and waving though, what is it all about I ask myself

18.15 hrs and still on the train!!!!!!

18.56 hrs just arrived at the station, just waiting for our luggage to be taken off before we alight. Been a long last hour!!!

Lovely room overlooking Lake Titicaca and the city of Puno

Goodnight all